hsukaria

I remember a couple of years ago I was breaking in an OS 4-stroke. It was initially set quite rich for the break-in. The vibrations from the engine were extreme until it was broken-in and I leaned the needles, then it became smooth.

SrTelemaster150

Well nuts can be cranked down to eliminate as much shake as wanted/needed. I have used them even W/perry shaker pumps for many gallons of fuel on my FA150 CDI W/O problems. I crank mine down until there is just a little "give", but not any real significant movement. The idea is to reduce the transmission of those "torsional impulses" as much as possible W/O having the engine "shaking like a dog ****ing peach seeds.

I agree W/you on the Dubro soft mount engine mounts. I for one would NOT even consider running the comercially available soft mount motor mounts. They are overly complicated & allow too much shaking..

FNQFLYER

Don't know yet it will depend on available groundclearence and scale speeddesired. I will probablyachieve the desired aims by using a mixture of propsize, pitch (up or down according to speed and rpmrequired) and if needs befiddle with the fuel mix a bit to get the other variables inside the desired parameters. (sorry about the verbage been associating with public servants and I got a bit to close to a politician)

FNQFLYER

Re fuel consumption and vibration etc1/ In Old timer Texaco I run a 65 that operates almost exclusively on the LSN, (that is the main jet doesn't come into play at all) This results in a 6 to 7 minute engine run on 10% nitro on about 10 mills of fuel. This is turning a 14 or 15 x 6 or 8 depending on the day.  Prop is usually a Graupner or Superior .
My other Saito (or even the Texaco one if pushed) re tuned for max RPM with 30% fuel on a 12 x6 Bollyt will screem into the air burning fuel commensurate with the rapid rate of climb.  In both cases I see / experience virtually no vibration.  I use the aplicable Saito or equivalent alloy mount.  I find the same situation re vibration on all my other performance engines.  HOWEVER using a fibreglass or comosite mount produces a totally different effect.  Vibration is expected outside the "normal rpm ranges" a factor that is aplified if the prop, or spinner is out of balance and there is any sort of other misalignment.
Iuse alloy mounts with standard mounting hardware and short of a crash have no problems with that set up at all.   

Rudolph Hart

Hi mate do you have any tach readings with a 65 swinging a 15x8,i would be interested in knowing how you do that.Like i said ages ago i have a 115 in a slippery midget mustang swinging a mas classic 15x8 just because i like the white prop tips..on the ground the max rpm i can get is in the middle eights don't have on board telemetry so have no idea what it maxes out to in a dive but it rips the prop and produces a sonic boom.Cheers mate

ricochet59

My Feedback: (65)

blw - I would like a Saito Club number also. I have over 15 Saito's from a 72 to 180, and a couple of FG's. Love this Forum. Thanx!!
Ricochet

FNQFLYER

Old Fart with the 65 set up for Texaco (fuel economy) we run at a target of 6200 rpm max with the usual arounf 5,000 for climb out and 4,000 + when the climb is stabilised.  We use transmitter mixing to get throttle control from the flap drum switch and the normal throttle to maintain both safety and consistent engine RPM's for best fuel burn. For Duration (vertival drag racing) we aim for 12,000 rpm on 30% = nitro.  Using these engines (no pumps or turbo / supercharging) we get a 4 seconfdengine run advantage over the YS 63.  Duration  engine run time for the "normal Saito" is 32 seconds for the YS is 28 seconds.  In duration it is a numbers game (plus model matching).  The Saito does 12000rpm and the YS gets 13,500 rpm +
Trust that is a little help  As an aside is your mustang a chinese take away?  My mate has 2 of these devices both are different weights and I think from memory he is running one of my old 120s I will see him at easter and I'll make some enquiries on your behalf.

Rudolph Hart

Yes it is,cm-pro make a 55" and mine weighs 4.5kgs/10+pounds?? ready to roll.You can almost ignore the wind,climbs like a rocket out of a fast low pass the 115 is awesome mate.Look forward to hearing about your mates midget mustangs too,is he running saito's??

SrTelemaster150

I have looked @ the FA115 size/weight spec's, & lusted after one to put into my 1/5 J3 Cub. I have an FA91S CDI slated for it, but I need to get some rust off my wings.

FA115 is big power in a medium sized package.

FNQFLYER

Old Fart, he is running a chinese rip off of yours.  I believe he is running a 120 twin plug in it.  He isn't happy with the weight, he subscribes to the theory the longer an object (read component part of a/c) takes to fall to the ground the better it is.
I'll gather data at Easter and maybe a few photos.  We have acquired a couple of OS 40P engines.  They are only good for 17sec engine run in duration but go like the clappers.  These were an especially good find as they came with the original tub mounts that OS supplied with then when new.

stevegauth30

Hey guys. I'm a new saito lover, but I just have to clarify one thing. So, if the air bleed needs to be adjusted and its too rich then I turn it counter clock wise? I'm just checking because that's what the manual says and I've just never had a engine like that. Just wouldn't want to burn up a brand new engine. Thanks for the answer in advance. Steve.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Yes, air bleed carbs do it backwards.

Rudolph Hart

You've no idea how many times i've wished the little 30 had a normal saito carby on it...handbrake aside,it's the next most frustrating thing in the world at times

FNQFLYER

What's the big deal with airbleed carbie or for that matter twin needle ones. All easy to use but the panic and mis management I see at the field is unreal. If in doubt there are lots of tutorials on line and books abound on the subject. I guess it is a sign of the times if it ain't got electronics attached to it it is black magic.

Rudolph Hart

You can tune your triple weber carbies to your hearts content mate,airbleed carbies need to be inserted in the same orifice

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

The little .30 is really easy, set the AB screw halfway across the hole and fly.

hsukaria

Did the 45 DCOEs come stock in your 260Z? I thought they came with SU carbs as stock. Or maybe that was the 240Z? Maybe the US had different setup? Or maybe I'm getting old and don't remember.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

New member:

803 Ricochet59

mike early

I went through 9 (nine) 280ZX Turbos before I couldn't find anymore.

Rudolph Hart

That is so funny mike sorry this is off thread so i'll keep it brief.Over here we mostly put 327/350 chevys in them after some small chassis rail mods,cheers

stevegauth30

Hi, I would really like to be new member number 804.thanks

ricochet59

My Feedback: (65)

Thanks BLW.
Ricochet

Quikturn

My Feedback: (12)

OK, on my Saito 91 I tried using a longer 3mm srew on the backplate where the original screw is stripped out. It seems to grab some threads but as I tighten up the screw it just keeps turning. So I ordered a 3.5x.6 mm tap from the bay ($6 shipped, not bad) and will recap of the lager size. My question is should I drill out the hole or just work the 3.5 mm tap into it? Also, what size drill bit? I only have std sizes. Thanks.

mike early

Taps require a specific drill bit size for best results. Buy the correct size drill bit is my advice.

KenD

My Feedback: (65)

Why not take to a machine shop and have a heli-coil installed?